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| Free range pigs rooting around in the wild |
Ponga is a
very little known mountain range directly west of The Picos de Europa. It’s a beautiful
rugged area which was declared a Natural Park a few years ago, and is home to
the most important beech forest in the Iberian Peninsular. It’s probably one of
the areas we most enjoy walking in and have gone there many times with guests
and the family
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| Ponga; an amazing mixture of mountains, woodlands and traditional farming. |
Many years
ago I had a really lovely experience in this area when I discovered a group of
ten large pigs lying in the shade of the beech trees close to a small mountain
stream. They were cautious of us, but not frightened and we could see someone
had been feeding them old pieces of bread. They got up, checked we had nothing
for them to eat and then started rooting around in the ground and slowly
trotted away. To see pigs in such a natural environment is a really lovely
sight and since then we have spotted groups of pigs on various occasions in
this area. I often wondered who looked after them and whose they were.
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| The first group of pigs we saw in Ponga |
One day back
in 2004 when we first started sourcing organic produce for the hotel I found
myself in a large supermarket in Oviedo looking at long rows of pork chops in
polystyrene packs. There were also a few odd packs of organic pork from Soria which is about
500 kms away. This made me decide to investigate what were the minimum
conditions necessary for a pig to be certified organic. Obviously organic pigs
have better conditions than their poor factory farmed counterparts but I was
still surprised on some of the practices permitted and I didn’t really know
what was going on at this farm 500kms away. I suddenly remembered the wonderful
site of the pigs roaming freely in the forests and decided I would try and find
out who owned them and if he ever sold them.
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| Our neighbour Victor |
I spoke
about these pigs to our neighbour Old man Victor, who at that time was 73 years
old and had been a farmer all his life. He knew there were farmers who still
let the pigs run wild and fatten up on the beach nuts and chestnuts in the Ponga Mountains.
It had been quite some years since he had been in that area and decided he
would like to come with me to try and find the pig’s owner. We set of early one
misty morning, he threw his small cigar away before he got in my car knowing I
didn’t like cigarette smoke. We drove up the Beyos gorge and after talking to 3
or 4 local farmers in the area realised there were 2 farmers who raised these
free range pigs. After a few more coffees in some rather pokey local bars we
discovered who was one of these pig farmers and where he lived. Amador Crespo from
San Jaun de Beleño.
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| Beech nuts on the forest floor in Ponga |
We met him
at his house at lunch time, he had just come down from the high mountain pastures
where he had his cows grazing, he was quite a small person and very open. He
told us he had up to 30 pigs grazing in the forests from late spring to autumn.
Most of them were already pre-ordered by local people, being fattened up ready
for “San Martin” the sacred dates when sausages would be made. He had a few
extra pigs and so I said I would be interested in 2 of them and arranged to
speak with him 3 months latter in October to arrange the best time to get them.
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| Autumn colours of the beech trees in Ponga |
October came
and the pigs were ready. Amador’s son has a lorry and so transported them to
the slaughter house in Mieres where we went to supervise the jointing of them.
No money was paid to Amador till after we had the pigs delivered from the
slaughter house to the hotel and we knew their weight. We told Amador the
weight of the pigs and then paid the agreed price per kilo for the whole pig.
It all worked on trust.
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| Cows enjoying the magical mountain pastures in Ponga |
Over the years
I visited Amador various times and got to know how he operated. He often talked
to me about some of the farming problems; wolves being the major problem with his animals which were running free in the mountains. I learnt that if the snow line came down
in the autumn the pigs would come down from the mountain forests to the town
where they would run around in the streets or shelter in some of his old stone
stables. When they couldn’t graze and feed in the wild (because of the snow) he
would feed them on a mixture of cereals, mostly barley and maize. He didn’t use
organic cereal and certainly wouldn’t be bothered with all the bureaucracy that
would be necessary to certify his pork organic, but for me he worked so well
with nature he certainly had my vote of confidence.
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| Abandoned village in Ponga |
Very sadly
he died in the spring of 2008 and at first no one in his family wanted to carry
on his work. It seemed like it would be the loss of another traditional hill farmer. Then his son Marcos decided to give up his factory job and return
to the family home to carry on farming like his father had
always done. Each year we still get a couple of pigs from Marcos and although
they are not certified organic we are more than happy with the way they are produced. We consider ourselves very lucky being able to spend the time
needed to discover and get to know our suppliers. This first hand knowledge about our suppliers is very importante to us. Obviously you can’t visit all the suppliers of the products
you consume so that’s when we rely on other forms of guarantee or certification
normally an organic certification.
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| Beech forest in spring |
Sausage the lesson for the global trade.
Buying
whole pigs direct from the farmer has made us realise other things. There was a
time when the hotel first opened (17 years ago) when we always served pork
tenderloins in the restaurant normally with a prune and Malaga wine sauce.
However when we started buying the pigs direct from the farmer out of the
200kgs of pork meat from the 2 pigs we brought there were only 4 x 1 kg tenderloins! So what
about the rest of the meat.
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| Our pork sausages made from the free range pork |
One of the
most popular dishes Joe developed was sausages based on a Danish recipe for
“frikadelas” By mincing some of the poorer cuts she produces this lovely dish
served with a mild mustard sauce. Cooking for a slower life also means learning
how to use all the different cuts of meat of an animal, so as to reduce the
global movement of specific meat cuts, from one country to another.
