Autumn

Autumn is here and with it darker days have come. We change the clocks this weekend and some how this seems to make the shorter days more noticeable. We also shut the hotel this weekend and the time seems right. For us a more restful period begins and a time to recharge our batteries and prepare for the spring when we open the doors to guests again.

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Autumn crocuses in the wild flower meadow by the hotel

Autumn is a season of mists and mellow fruitfulness and Asturias has a rich helping of both. Cold clear nights can give birth to morning mist in the valleys, creating an eerie calm; a cold white blanket covering the lower lands only to be gracefully lifted by the rising sun revealing a radiant blue sky. Other days the skies turn grey, reminding us the possibilities of summer are gone and the chill of winter is on the horizon. That’s when we’re glad of those hard summer days work; cutting down old trees and preparing wood. It will soon be time to enjoy the warmth of an open fire and gaze endlessly at the magical forms of the dancing flames.

Autumn morning with mist in the valley taken on the farm.

For man, autumn is a time of harvest, of gathering together. For nature, it is a time of sowing, of scattering abroad. For us our major harvest is finished as we have picked all our apples a couple of weeks ago. They’ve now been pressed and are slowly fermenting ready to be enjoyed as natural cider this coming season. Now we have other harvests to tend to; pumpkins, beans, peppers and aubergines. These are crops we have sown in spring and then nurtured through the summer months. Now we are storing and drying these fruits ready to enjoy them through the winter months and the coming year.

Different types of pumpkins just harvested from the vegetable garden

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Mother earth is kind as she allows us to harvest her gifts of life. There are many crops where we do nothing, just wait till the moment is right and then harvest her offerings. Like the parasol mushrooms which this year have appeared on our farm in the hundreds. All we do is harvest them when they are at their best, no cultivation from us is necessary nature does it all. Then we prepare them for our guests who can enjoy their delicate falvour in the restaurant whilst enjoying each others company. Walnuts have also abounded this year and they are now slowly drying waiting to be shelled ready for the coming season.

A Parasol mushroom in the orchard just ready for picking

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Walnuts drying on the hotel terrace.

Autumn is also a time of exceptional beauty as seen in our wild flower meadows which are alive with a mass of glorious autumn crocuses. Fungi of all shape and sizes come and go puzzling the mushroom collector who, whilst admiring them, wonders on their identity and edibility. The trees prepare for the dormant season and with it grace us with a spectacle of autumn colour. Then their leaves fall silently covering the paths and woodland floor providing food and habitat to a range of hard working creatures that help nature’s cycles to carry on as the seasons follow.

An unidentified fungi on the farm!

The hotel yesterday.

Walking in the high peaks of the Picos de Europa

Late summer is an excellent time to go walking in the high peaks of the Picos de Europa and this September I managed to do two two-day walks in this stunning mountain landscape.

The Picos de Europa are sliced into three distinct areas by deep gorges running south-north, these area; the Western Massif, the Central Massif and the Eastern Massif.

The first of these two day walks was in the central massif which is the most abrupt of the three massifs. The central massif is home to the highest peak in the whole Cordillera Cantabrica – Torre Cerredo, at 2648m – amongst several others over 2600m; plus the most famous of all, Picu Urriellu, the Naranjo de Bulnes, at 2519m.

The high dry karst landscape taken from the summit of Torre de la Palanca with Torre Cerredo in the background.

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Chamois are very common and well adapted to this high mountain terrain.

On this walk in the central massif I explored an area less known for me; the “Llambrion sector” on the southern side of the Picos. I started at the Pandetraba pass near Posada de Valdeon climbing the Torre de la Palanca (2614 m high) and staying the night at the very spectacularly situated Collado Jermosa Refuge.

The spectacular setting of the Collado Jermosa refuge

Tracks and paths in the lower peaks range from being moderately well way marked paths to minor animal tracks but the higher you go up the passes and routes tend to be much more difficult to find and follow. Apart from knowing how to use a compass there is a definite need for mountain sense when walking in the high peaks, as well as experience of walking and navigating in the mountains.

Good waymarks on the lower mountain paths

The path leading to the Collado Jermos refuge

The high mountain paths can get quite difficult!

The second walk was in the western massif. This massif covers the greatest area of the three massifs which form the Picos de Europa and climbs relatively gently from the hills of the Covadonga area, becoming an almost lunar landscape across its high rocky plateau, centred on the wide depression of Hou Santu, and peaking at the 2596m of Torre Santa de Castilla, before plunging 1500m into the narrow Cares Gorge. On this second walk I started from Pan de Carmen near the lakes and did the complete circuit around the high peaks of the western massif including Torre Santa de Castilla and through the Hou Santu depression.

The impressive Jou Santo

Walking along the rocky slope of Jou Santo.

Geologically what is so special about the Picos de Europa is that they are a unit composed almost purely of limestone, and are the largest single mass of mountain limestone in Europe. The limestone dissolves in rainwater by a process known as karstification, the most visible sign of which is the vertical fluting of rock-faces. Also notable, and typical of karst landscapes, are the sink-holes or “jous” (or “hous” in Asturian), formed by lakes having drained through underground passages. The largest of these seemingly-lifeless jous are over 1km across, and are just as dramatic as the peaks surrounding them. The passages through which they drained have formed an extensive and complex cave system. The high dry karst landscape is typical for its lack of surface water, but infrequent springs do arrive at the surface, though not for long, and they are notorious to locate.

Vertical fluting of rock-faces on the Karst landscape.

A good network of mountain refuges exists in the Picos de Europa, allowing multi-day walking routes. Most refuges are manned and provide meal services, sleeping bags are necessary, and some don’t have washing or toilet facilities. Opening times can vary, and it is advisable to contact the refuges themselves before planning to stay in the. Other refuges are unmanned, such as the one at Vega Huerta. I stayed at this refuge whilst doing the circuit in the Western Massif, it only sleeps four but there is a cave near by to sleep when there is over booking!

Mountain sunset taken from Vega Huerta

The unmanned refuge at Vega Huerta with the highest peak Torre Santa de Castilla in the background.

Opportunities for walking in the Picos de Europa are limitless, with something for everybody. Not only are there high mountain circuits like these two walks but there are also gentle valley strolls, gorge walks, and even easier walks at the 1000m level such as the short walk around the lakes! It’s also possible to visit the impressive Jou Santo on a (longish) day walk. Information on these walks is available on the section on self-guided walking on our web page.

“Gentler” terrain just above the lakes with the higher peaks in the background

Walking up towards Jou Santo from the lakes

There is also much more detailed information on the Picos de Europa on our web page, covering a range of topics including such as flora, geology culture, driving itineraries, walking etc.

The Earth Pilgrims Retreat

Sebastian Burch and Satish Kumar on one of the walks during the Earth Pilgrims Retreat.

As I sat looking out of my window this morning I see the large trees like giants on this land giving home to the birds I hear chirping as they hop from branch to branch. In the distance I see the green meadows giving food to the cows and nourishing the fruit trees whose fruit will soon be made into cider. In the far distance the mountains are standing around us, as if protecting us, from who or what I wonder.

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. Morning walk and around the farm

This is my introduction to the Earth Pilgrim Retreat that has just taken place at the hotel. Thank you to everyone who helped and participated so this event took place, especially to Sebastian who planted the seed and Satish for making the long journey to be with us. If success can be measured by happiness I think we scored tops.

Satish talking with the group at the local Santa Marina Chapel

Contemplating the River Dobra

Evening Yoga session with June (Satish’s wife)

It was a wonderful experience, to be and listen to everyone, our walking with nature embraced us with all elements; the fire of the sun at the beach, the wind up at the lakes and the overflowing river the Dobra. An amazing and very memorable time!

Work shop in a woodland classroom on the farm.

Embracing the elements at the lakes of Covadonga

The open evening with 35 attendants

The Earth Pilgrims retreat was held at the hotel from the 30th of September to the 5th of October and attracted participants from Spain the UK and further a field.

The group photo.

Blog entrance written by Joe

Tienda Ecológica Olea

Maria, Samantha and Joe outside the new shop in LLanes

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Maria worked with us at the hotel two years ago and since leaving has been setting up a shop in Llanes specialising in organic products. Yesterday she had the inauguration of her shop and it attracted quite a gathering of people.

A good gathering of people in the inauguration of the shop.

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The shop is called Olea Tienda Ecologica and sells all sorts of organic and fair trade products with a good range of food items including fresh fruit and vegetable as well as cosmetics, cleaning products and even organic seeds and fertilizers.

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Fresh fruit and vegetables on sale

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The shop is nicely decorated, the products are very well presented; Maria is as helpful and pleasant as ever, so it makes a lovely place to do your shopping. You can find the shop by the harbour in Llanes.

Maria helping a customer.

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From all of us at the hotel we wish Maria all the best with her new venture and encourage everyone in the area to go along and visit the shop

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The Asturian Coast line

Whatever way you look at it, it is beautiful. There are sandy beaches, rocky coves, gusty headlands and sheltered harbours. One of my favourite estuaries is the river Niembro in Barro, there is a beautiful church and cemetery hugging the river, something you see in paintings and wonder where it can be…
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The church at the Niembro river estuary

On from the village there is a lovely coastal path leading you to the beach of Torimbia, a golden shell of sand with gentle waves, I love it in the winter when you can be alone with the seagulls and your footprints in the sand.

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Torimbia beach

There are many paths along the coastline some better than others, but most have magnificent views, from above Torimbia you can see the Picos de Europa snow topped mountains, it is wonderful to look 360 degrees and take in the sea , the headlands and the mountains, turn again it is real. Walking on from here you reach the river Bedon, and then on to a pebbly beach, San Antolin, here in the mouth of the river lie the remains of an old monastery with its hidden history. There is a tale of a rich nobleman in the 11th century who killed a young couple in anger, because he was in love with the damsel. Later he regretted this and built the monastery, then spent the rest of his life as monk. The monastery became abandoned in the 17th century for unknown reasons.

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Rugged headlands

Walking on along the headlands and across fields, sometimes a little prickly with yellow gorse, you stumble across Gulpiyuri an inland treasure, a unique inland beach, it has beach and sea surrounded by rocks, grass and shrubs, with the sea entering through a hidden tunnel, it is a very strange feeling to sit there and not see the big open sea.

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The inland beach of Gulpiyuri

Continuing along the rugged cliff tops you reach Playa La Huegla an inlet with a magnificent rocky arch as though protecting this little bay. The first time I saw this I paddled across the river to the beach on the other side walked around the corner as the arch came in sight I let out a Whew! Nature in all its splendor. We go to see manmade buildings and gaze and marvel but this must be truly marvelous too…

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Joe at Playa La Huelga

Another favourite beach is Cuevas de Mar, I think the name says everything, but this is my starting point, I wander over the headland which on a stormy day can have some incredible blow holes, the rush of the sea below, the whistling of the air and the drawing in of the sea only to be released a minute later with an enormous spray of water, many times we are surprised by the force of the air and get a surprise soaking. Up ahead is the small Ermita (chapel)of San Antonio, where lies the remains of the family of Conde de la Vega del Sella, a lovely place to rest, occasionally with goats grazing nearby.

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Blow holes!

The coast has many variations from cliff top walking to beautiful green meadows that seem to stretch out its hands to the sea, I love to see the cows slowly plodding along or ruminating on a feast of wild flowers and pasture with the seagulls flying overhead. There are 483 kms of coastline in Asturias from East to West, so there is a lot to discover from fishing ports, to Lighthouses standing as giants to warn the sailors of the nearby coast, not forgetting the dinosaur footprints which hold many a tale of adventure, and perhaps a little imagination.

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I could talk and talk about this wonderful coast, but perhaps it is time to stop and go for a swim……………………………Splash !

Blog entrance written by Joe

No Car Holiday

In this day and age where the use of a car is a daily necessity for many people, the opportunity to leave the car keys on the side table and forget the traffic queues is something to be relished. Over the last couple of years we have been working looking at different walks, outings and activities which can be done whilst staying at Hotel Posada del Valle with out the need of a car.

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The path along the stream beneath the hotel.

We now believe Hotel Posada del Valle makes a very good base for a relaxing holiday without a car. There are excellent walks in the surrounding countryside of various grades that start and finish directly from the hotel. The walks focus on the surrounding hills and valleys enabling our guests to visit some of the local villages where it’s possible to get a feel for the rich culture and rural life of Asturias.

Granary store or “Horreo;” typical rural scenery.

With a little more effort (or the with the help of a short taxi ride) it’s possible to walk along the Sueve mountains, a coastal mountain range with stunning views of the coast and surrounding mountains – with it’s semi-wild horses and rich fauna and flora, the Sueve is a place to let life slow to a gentler pace. It’s also possible to walk from the hotel to the coast along the Fito hills where the views never fail to impress. A taxi can be taken for return to the hotel if required.

Views from the Sueve Mountains

Walking from the hotel to the coast

The range of walks can be extended by the use of public transport from Arriondas where it is possible to get the narrow gauge railway (FEVE) or use the bus service (ALSA). The public transport isn’t that frequent but with good planning there are normally sufficient services. Arriondas is 3 kms from the hotel and can be reached either walking directly along the road taking about 40 minutes or by using the more scenic route “La Senda Verde” which takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. There is also a good taxi service between the hotel and Arriondas the journey costing about 5 Euros.

The FEVE narrow guage railway

By use of the public transport from Arriondas it’s also possible to visit Oviedo the capital of Asturias with its art museum, cathedral, pre-romanesque churches and shopping centre as well as the coastal towns of Ribadesella and Llanes, with their fishing ports, beaches and old town centres.

The old town in Ribadesella

Finally we shouldn’t forget the hotel has 2 lounges and a terrace for relaxing as well as its own 20 acre organic farm with an interpretive trail, places to sit and relax and depending on the time of the year, walks and strolls around its wild flower meadows.

The hotel farm

Guests who come without a car should realise that it is difficult to get in to the higher mountains such as the Picos de Europa as there is no public transport service, except in the very height of summer. We do however promote a car-sharing scheme but find that it is not always as successful as we would like it to be. We hope to develop this in the future.

To reach the hotel by public transport see the link on ‘non flying travel options’ under the Travel Arrangement section of our web page.

The feedback from guests who have chosen a no-car holiday and have set realistic goals has been very positive, taking a slower paced holiday and spending quality time in a focussed area being the highlight and positive aspects of their trip.

The cross on the “Pico Moro” or Moors Peak which can also be reached walking straight from the hotel.

Let’s gather together at the Earth Pilgrims Retreat!

The first smell of autum is in the air and natures harvest hangs heavy on the trees and hedgerows. On the 23rd of September a full moon will light the night of the Autumn Equinox, a peak time to celebrate our sense of change and transformation, a reminder of our cyclical belonging to Gaia. A week after, as the moon wanes on the 30th of September, it will be a time for Earth Pilgrims to Retreat, and while we do, the trees will start to loose all attachment to what earlier on in the year was their source of power and richness, the beginning of a natural period of meditation and tranquillity. A moment of silent transformation in nature. As it is, we will come together on the Earth Pilgrims Retreat to partake in this reflective and creative moment of life.

Earth Pilgrims can choose to live their life as an open inquiry into the wholeness of nature. Wondering the world of existence without destination, but full of freedom and a powerful sense of belonging that unfolds a sense of service and commitment to the Earth. The World is a place full of meaning, where every moment is a glimpse of the existential dialog of life, or as Father Thomas Berry felt it; - we are living the dream of the Earth.

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During our time together we will listen to the gentle words of nature. Each Earth Pilgrim will have a chance to remember and deepen their awareness of the different beings in this land. Signs of life in a planet that is both our mother and our grand children; reflections of our soul that each day become more detailed and perfused with subtle qualities. Let us join an exploration on how nature is the most profound source of meaning within each one of our cultures and why without nature the awareness of our own culture would dissipate into its own voidness.

The event runs from Thursday evening 30th of September to Wednesday morning 6th of October. Satish Kumar (two full days), Sebastian Burch and Hotel Posada del Valle's Community invites all earth pilgrims toretreat with us during this special occasion.

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More Information on The Earths Pilgrim Retreat

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Blog entry written by Sebastian Burch